Tuesday, January 14, 2025

Gunkholing with a purpose


When we had to leave Taveuni/Paradise Resort because of adverse wind and waves, we could have found safe harbor in close by (12nm) Dakuniba Bay. That has a bit of a dogleg in the pass thru the reef, and we didn't want to do that in bad light.





Savusavu always has a surprise for us, this time we got to eat a Slipper-Lobster:


While musing about not stopping at Dakuniba Bay instead, we made it a mission to visit a few of these possible anchorages before bad weather hits.


Dakuniba wasn't difficult to enter with good light. Two markers on the inside of the reef helped, and now we know what to look for when we need to bail into a place with good protection for any winds from the north or east.



Deep inside only mangroves are lining the shore. It shallows ever so slowly, we turned around at ~30 feet. The opening towards the ocean and reef isn't big enough to let in a dangerous swell. This does look like a decent anchorage in a storm. It is mentioned in several cruising guides, and the locals would also bring some boats in here.




We may come back here on another good day to see the many flying foxes. At day time they just hang around:


From here we passed inside the reefs to Viani Bay and that stretch is difficult with good light. At some narrows we had to readjust our plan since a strong current was pushing us around the wrong (unplanned) side of a rock.  

Viani Bay is terrible for anchoring, very deep with steep coral pinnacles to wrap the anchor chain around. When lucky, one can get one of two moorings at a dive center. 

We continued to Naqaiqai Creek. The entrance is pretty narrow with fringing reefs extending from the points. An afternoon rain shower made it look more difficult than it is.


 


Once inside, it shallows quickly and we turned around in less than 15ft of water. We did stay for the night. The wind funnels a bit along the creek, and for any strong southerly winds, one would want to go in a bit deeper, after exploring the depths with the dinghy first. 

Friends gave this bay some other names: "Eddie's Bay" for the owner of a house here that greets the sailboats, "Mudcrab Bay" for what can be caught here, or "Dismal Swamp" when trying to reach the shore to the south and a hike to Viani Bay.



The "Remote Resort" keeps their boats at that pier and one can tie up the dinghy there and walk over the hill to the resort.